/* Smiths Family Life — a warm travel journal: cream paper, plum ink, terracotta route lines, luggage tags and tickets. */
@font-face { font-family: "Lora"; src: url("../fonts/Lora.woff2") format("woff2"); font-weight: 400 700; font-style: normal; font-display: swap; }
@font-face { font-family: "Lora"; src: url("../fonts/Lora-Italic.woff2") format("woff2"); font-weight: 400 700; font-style: italic; font-display: swap; }
@font-face { font-family: "Cabin"; src: url("../fonts/Cabin.woff2") format("woff2"); font-weight: 400 700; font-style: normal; font-display: swap; }
@font-face { font-family: "Cabin"; src: url("../fonts/Cabin-Italic.woff2") format("woff2"); font-weight: 400 700; font-style: italic; font-display: swap; }

:root {
  --paper: #FBF3E6; --paper-2: #F3E4CE; --card: #FFFDF8; --kraft: #E9D6BD;
  --ink: #2E2238; --plum: #3B2A4A; --muted: #5F5466;
  --terra: #C4553A; --terra-text: #9E3D25; --sage: #5E7D61; --sage-dark: #44604A; --mustard: #E7A74E; --rose: #B0397A;
  --line: #E3CFB4; --focus: #2E2238;
  --serif: "Lora", Georgia, "Times New Roman", serif;
  --sans: "Cabin", "Segoe UI", system-ui, -apple-system, Arial, sans-serif;
  --r: 14px;
}
* { box-sizing: border-box; }
[hidden] { display: none !important; }
html { -webkit-text-size-adjust: 100%; scroll-padding-top: 16px; }
body { margin: 0; background: var(--paper); color: var(--ink); font: 400 1.0625rem/1.65 var(--sans); overflow-wrap: break-word; }
img, svg { max-width: 100%; }
img { height: auto; }
a { color: var(--terra-text); text-underline-offset: .18em; text-decoration-thickness: 1px; }
a:hover { text-decoration-thickness: 2px; }
:focus-visible { outline: 3px solid var(--focus); outline-offset: 2px; box-shadow: 0 0 0 6px var(--mustard); border-radius: 3px; }
h1, h2, h3, h4 { font-family: var(--serif); font-weight: 600; line-height: 1.2; color: var(--plum); margin: 0 0 .5em; }
h1 { font-size: clamp(2rem, 1.4rem + 2.6vw, 3.1rem); letter-spacing: -.01em; }
h2 { font-size: clamp(1.45rem, 1.2rem + 1vw, 1.9rem); }
h3 { font-size: 1.22rem; }
p { margin: 0 0 1em; }
.wrap { max-width: 1160px; margin: 0 auto; padding: 0 16px; }
.muted { color: var(--muted); }
.lead { font-size: 1.15rem; color: var(--muted); max-width: 62ch; }
.skip { position: absolute; left: -9999px; top: 8px; z-index: 100; background: var(--plum); color: #fff; padding: 10px 14px; border-radius: 6px; }
.skip:focus { left: 8px; }
main:focus { outline: none; }
.ico { width: 1.15em; height: 1.15em; vertical-align: -.2em; flex: none; }
.btn { display: inline-flex; align-items: center; gap: .4em; min-height: 46px; padding: 10px 20px; border-radius: 999px; background: var(--terra-text); color: #fff; font-weight: 700; text-decoration: none; border: 2px solid var(--terra-text); }
.btn:hover { background: var(--plum); border-color: var(--plum); }
.btn.ghost { background: transparent; color: var(--plum); border-color: var(--plum); }
.btn.ghost:hover { background: var(--plum); color: #fff; }
.empty { padding: 24px; border: 2px dashed var(--line); border-radius: var(--r); color: var(--muted); }
.ad-tag { display: inline-block; font: 700 .7rem/1 var(--sans); letter-spacing: .06em; text-transform: uppercase; padding: 3px 6px; border-radius: 4px; background: var(--plum); color: #fff; vertical-align: .15em; }

/* ---------------------------------------------------------------- header */
.site-head { background: var(--plum); color: var(--paper); position: relative; }
.site-head::after { content: ""; display: block; height: 10px; background: repeating-linear-gradient(90deg, var(--terra) 0 26px, transparent 26px 34px), var(--plum); border-top: 3px solid var(--mustard); }
.head-in { display: flex; flex-wrap: wrap; align-items: center; justify-content: space-between; gap: 10px 24px; padding-top: 14px; padding-bottom: 14px; }
.brand { display: flex; align-items: center; gap: 12px; color: var(--paper); text-decoration: none; }
.brand-mark { width: 48px; height: 48px; flex: none; }
.brand-name { font: 600 1.55rem/1.05 var(--serif); }
.brand-name i { color: var(--mustard); font-weight: 500; }
.brand-name small { display: block; font: 400 .85rem/1.3 var(--sans); color: #E9DCCB; letter-spacing: .02em; margin-top: 3px; }
.main-nav ul { list-style: none; margin: 0; padding: 0; display: flex; flex-wrap: wrap; gap: 4px 6px; }
.main-nav a { display: block; padding: 8px 12px; border-radius: 999px; color: var(--paper); text-decoration: none; font-weight: 600; font-size: .98rem; }
.main-nav a:hover { background: rgba(255, 255, 255, .12); }
.main-nav a[aria-current] { background: var(--paper); color: var(--plum); }

/* ------------------------------------------------------------------ hero */
.hero { padding: 40px 0 28px; background: radial-gradient(circle at 85% 20%, rgba(231, 167, 78, .22), transparent 45%), var(--paper); }
.hero-in { display: grid; gap: 28px; align-items: center; grid-template-columns: minmax(0, 1fr); }
@media (min-width: 900px) { .hero-in { grid-template-columns: 1.25fr 1fr; gap: 48px; } }
.kicker { font: italic 500 1.1rem var(--serif); color: var(--terra-text); margin-bottom: .3em; }
.stamps { list-style: none; padding: 0; margin: 0 0 24px; display: flex; flex-wrap: wrap; gap: 10px; }
.stamps li { padding: 8px 14px; background: var(--card); border: 2px dashed var(--terra); border-radius: 10px; font-size: .95rem; color: var(--muted); transform: rotate(-1.2deg); }
.stamps li:nth-child(even) { transform: rotate(1.4deg); border-color: var(--sage); }
.stamps b { font: 700 1.3rem var(--serif); color: var(--plum); margin-right: 2px; }
.hero-cta { display: flex; flex-wrap: wrap; gap: 10px; }
.postcard { display: block; background: var(--card); padding: 14px 14px 18px; border-radius: 6px; box-shadow: 0 1px 0 var(--line), 0 18px 40px -18px rgba(46, 34, 56, .45); transform: rotate(1.8deg); text-decoration: none; color: var(--ink); max-width: 460px; justify-self: center; }
.postcard:hover { transform: rotate(0deg); }
.postcard-pic { display: block; aspect-ratio: 3 / 2; overflow: hidden; border-radius: 3px; background: var(--kraft); }
.postcard-pic img, .postcard-pic svg { width: 100%; height: 100%; object-fit: cover; display: block; }
.postcard-txt { display: block; padding: 12px 4px 0; }
.postcard-txt small { display: block; font: italic 1rem var(--serif); color: var(--terra-text); }
.postcard-txt strong { display: block; font: 600 1.35rem/1.25 var(--serif); color: var(--plum); }
@media (prefers-reduced-motion: no-preference) { .postcard { transition: transform .3s ease; } }

/* ---------------------------------------------------------------- blocks */
.block { margin: 36px auto; }
.block-head { display: flex; flex-wrap: wrap; align-items: baseline; justify-content: space-between; gap: 8px 16px; }
.page-head { padding-top: 36px; }
.page-head h1 { display: flex; align-items: center; gap: .3em; flex-wrap: wrap; }
.year { display: flex; align-items: center; gap: 14px; }
.year::after { content: ""; flex: 1; border-top: 3px dotted var(--terra); }
.prose > * { max-width: 760px; }
.prose ul { padding-left: 1.2em; }
.big-mail { font: 600 1.4rem var(--serif); }
.plain-list li { margin-bottom: 6px; }
.cross-link { margin-top: 28px; padding: 16px 20px; border-left: 5px solid var(--sage); background: var(--card); border-radius: 0 var(--r) var(--r) 0; }
.cross-link p { margin: 0; }

/* ------------------------------------------------------- luggage-tag cards */
.tag-grid { display: grid; gap: 26px; grid-template-columns: repeat(auto-fill, minmax(min(100%, 300px), 1fr)); }
.tag-card { position: relative; background: var(--card); border: 1px solid var(--line); border-radius: 10px 10px 10px 10px; clip-path: polygon(0 26px, 26px 0, 100% 0, 100% 100%, 0 100%); box-shadow: 0 12px 26px -20px rgba(46, 34, 56, .6); display: flex; flex-direction: column; }
.tag-card::before { content: ""; position: absolute; left: 18px; top: 18px; width: 16px; height: 16px; border-radius: 50%; background: var(--paper); border: 3px solid var(--kraft); z-index: 2; }
.tag-pic { position: relative; aspect-ratio: 16 / 9; background: var(--kraft); overflow: hidden; }
.tag-pic img, .tag-pic svg { width: 100%; height: 100%; object-fit: cover; display: block; }
.sample-flag { position: absolute; right: 10px; bottom: 10px; background: var(--mustard); color: var(--ink); font-weight: 700; font-size: .85rem; padding: 4px 10px; border-radius: 999px; }
.tag-body { padding: 16px 20px 20px; border-top: 3px dashed var(--line); }
.tag-date { font: italic 500 .98rem var(--serif); color: var(--terra-text); margin: 0 0 .2em; }
.tag-title { margin: 0 0 .25em; font-size: 1.3rem; }
.tag-title a { color: var(--plum); text-decoration: none; }
.tag-title a::after { content: ""; position: absolute; inset: 0; z-index: 3; }
.tag-title a:hover { text-decoration: underline; }
.tag-card:focus-within { outline: 3px solid var(--focus); outline-offset: 3px; }
.tag-title a:focus-visible { outline: none; box-shadow: none; }
.tag-sub { font-weight: 600; margin: 0 0 .4em; }
.tag-sum { color: var(--muted); margin: 0 0 .6em; }
.tag-bits { font-size: .9rem; color: var(--sage-dark); font-weight: 600; margin: 0; }

.browse-list { list-style: none; padding: 0; margin: 0; display: grid; gap: 12px; grid-template-columns: repeat(auto-fill, minmax(min(100%, 210px), 1fr)); }
.browse-list a { display: flex; gap: 12px; align-items: flex-start; padding: 16px; background: var(--card); border: 1px solid var(--line); border-radius: var(--r); text-decoration: none; color: var(--muted); height: 100%; }
.browse-list a:hover { border-color: var(--terra); }
.browse-list .ico { width: 30px; height: 30px; color: var(--terra-text); }
.browse-list b { display: block; color: var(--plum); font: 600 1.1rem var(--serif); }

/* ------------------------------------------------------------------ maps */
.map-box { margin: 0 0 12px; }
.map { height: 380px; border-radius: var(--r); border: 3px solid var(--card); box-shadow: 0 0 0 1px var(--line); background: #E8E1D3; overflow: hidden; }
.map-tall .map { height: min(70vh, 620px); }
.map-note { font-size: .85rem; color: var(--muted); margin: 6px 0 0; }
.map-off { padding: 16px; }
.map-failed::after { content: "The map couldn’t load. Everything on it is listed on this page."; display: block; padding: 16px; }
.pin { background: none; border: 0; }
.pin svg { width: 100%; height: 100%; filter: drop-shadow(0 2px 2px rgba(0, 0, 0, .3)); }
.leaflet-container { font-family: var(--sans); }
.leaflet-popup-content { font-size: .95rem; }
.legend { list-style: none; padding: 0; margin: 10px 0 0; display: flex; flex-wrap: wrap; gap: 6px 16px; font-size: .9rem; color: var(--muted); }
.legend .k { display: inline-block; width: 14px; height: 14px; border-radius: 50%; vertical-align: -2px; margin-right: 4px; }
.k-line { width: 22px !important; height: 4px !important; border-radius: 2px !important; background: var(--terra); vertical-align: 3px !important; }
.k-stay { background: var(--plum); } .k-did { background: var(--sage); } .k-show { background: var(--rose); } .k-ate { background: #C77F1E; } .k-stop { background: var(--paper); border: 3px solid var(--plum); }

/* ------------------------------------------------------------- trip page */
.sample-banner, .preview-banner { background: var(--mustard); color: var(--ink); padding: 12px 0; font-size: 1rem; }
.preview-banner { background: var(--sage); color: #fff; } .preview-banner a { color: #fff; }
.trip-head { background: linear-gradient(180deg, var(--paper-2), var(--paper)); padding: 28px 0 20px; }
.trip-head-in { display: grid; gap: 24px; align-items: center; grid-template-columns: minmax(0, 1fr); }
@media (min-width: 900px) { .trip-head-in { grid-template-columns: 1.2fr 1fr; gap: 44px; } }
.crumbs { font-size: .92rem; color: var(--muted); margin-bottom: .6em; }
.trip-date { font: italic 500 1.15rem var(--serif); color: var(--terra-text); margin: 0 0 .2em; }
.trip-sub { font: 500 1.25rem var(--serif); color: var(--muted); margin-top: -.2em; }
.trip-facts { list-style: none; padding: 0; margin: 0 0 16px; display: flex; flex-wrap: wrap; gap: 8px; }
.trip-facts li { display: inline-flex; align-items: center; gap: 6px; padding: 5px 12px; background: var(--card); border: 1px solid var(--line); border-radius: 999px; font-weight: 600; font-size: .95rem; }
.trip-facts .ico { color: var(--terra-text); }
.stamp { margin: 0; padding: 14px; background: radial-gradient(circle, var(--kraft) 5.5px, transparent 6px) -11px -11px / 22px 22px, var(--card); box-shadow: 0 10px 22px -14px rgba(46, 34, 56, .5); transform: rotate(-1.5deg); }
.stamp img { display: block; width: 100%; aspect-ratio: 4 / 3; object-fit: cover; }
.stamp figcaption { font-size: .85rem; color: var(--muted); padding: 6px 8px 4px; background: var(--card); }
.trip-toc { margin-top: 8px; }
.trip-toc ul { list-style: none; margin: 0; padding: 10px 0; display: flex; flex-wrap: wrap; gap: 6px 8px; border-top: 2px dotted var(--terra); border-bottom: 2px dotted var(--terra); }
.trip-toc a { display: inline-block; padding: 4px 12px; border-radius: 999px; background: var(--card); text-decoration: none; font-weight: 600; font-size: .95rem; }
.trip-grid { display: grid; gap: 8px 40px; grid-template-columns: minmax(0, 1fr); }
@media (min-width: 980px) { .trip-grid { grid-template-columns: minmax(0, 1fr) 330px; } .trip-side { position: sticky; top: 16px; align-self: start; margin-top: 36px; } }
.trip-main h2 { display: flex; align-items: center; gap: .35em; }
.trip-main h2 .ico { color: var(--terra-text); }
.report { font-size: 1.1rem; max-width: 70ch; }
.report > p:first-of-type::first-letter { font: 600 3.1em/0.8 var(--serif); float: left; margin: .08em .1em 0 0; color: var(--terra-text); }
.report h3 { margin-top: 1.4em; }

/* tickets */
.tickets { display: grid; gap: 16px; }
.ticket { display: grid; grid-template-columns: 1fr; background: var(--card); border: 1px solid var(--line); border-radius: var(--r); overflow: hidden; position: relative; }
@media (min-width: 620px) { .ticket { grid-template-columns: 150px 1fr; } }
.ticket-stub { background: var(--plum); color: var(--paper); padding: 14px 16px; display: flex; flex-direction: column; gap: 4px; position: relative; }
@media (min-width: 620px) { .ticket-stub { border-right: 3px dashed var(--paper); } .ticket-stub::before, .ticket-stub::after { content: ""; position: absolute; right: -12px; width: 22px; height: 22px; border-radius: 50%; background: var(--paper); } .ticket-stub::before { top: -11px; } .ticket-stub::after { bottom: -11px; } }
.ticket-mode { font-weight: 700; display: flex; align-items: center; gap: 6px; }
.ticket-mode .ico { color: var(--mustard); width: 1.4em; height: 1.4em; }
.ticket-date { font: italic 1rem var(--serif); color: #E9DCCB; }
.ticket-main { padding: 14px 18px 8px; }
.ticket-route { font-size: 1.25rem; display: flex; flex-wrap: wrap; gap: 2px 10px; align-items: baseline; }
.ticket-route .arrow { color: var(--terra-text); }
.ticket-facts { display: flex; flex-wrap: wrap; gap: 6px 22px; margin: 0 0 8px; }
.ticket-facts dt { font-size: .78rem; text-transform: uppercase; letter-spacing: .06em; color: var(--muted); }
.ticket-facts dd { margin: 0; font-weight: 600; }
.ticket-notes p { margin-bottom: .6em; }

/* places */
.places { display: grid; gap: 16px; }
.place { display: grid; gap: 0 18px; background: var(--card); border: 1px solid var(--line); border-left: 6px solid var(--sage); border-radius: var(--r); padding: 16px 18px; }
.place-stay { border-left-color: var(--plum); } .place-show { border-left-color: var(--rose); } .place-ate { border-left-color: #C77F1E; }
@media (min-width: 620px) { .place:has(.place-pic) { grid-template-columns: 220px 1fr; } }
.place-pic img { border-radius: 8px; display: block; width: 100%; aspect-ratio: 4 / 3; object-fit: cover; margin-bottom: 10px; }
.place h3 { margin-bottom: .15em; }
.place-meta { color: var(--muted); font-weight: 600; font-size: .95rem; margin-bottom: .6em; }
.place-link { margin: 0; font-weight: 600; }
.trip-group small { font: 400 .95rem var(--sans); color: var(--muted); }
.trip-group a { color: var(--plum); }

/* gallery */
.gallery { list-style: none; padding: 0; margin: 0; display: grid; gap: 14px; grid-template-columns: repeat(auto-fill, minmax(min(100%, 200px), 1fr)); }
.gallery figure { margin: 0; background: var(--card); padding: 8px 8px 10px; border-radius: 4px; box-shadow: 0 6px 14px -10px rgba(46, 34, 56, .5); }
.gallery li:nth-child(3n+1) figure { transform: rotate(-1deg); } .gallery li:nth-child(3n+2) figure { transform: rotate(.8deg); }
.gallery img { display: block; width: 100%; aspect-ratio: 4 / 3; object-fit: cover; }
.gallery figcaption { font-size: .88rem; color: var(--muted); padding-top: 6px; }

/* videos */
.video-card { margin: 0 0 22px; }
.yt-frame { position: relative; height: 0; padding-top: max(56.25%, 220px); background: var(--plum); border-radius: var(--r); overflow: hidden; }
.yt-frame iframe { position: absolute; inset: 0; width: 100%; height: 100%; border: 0; }
.yt-play { position: absolute; inset: 0; width: 100%; height: 100%; padding: 0; border: 0; cursor: pointer; background: radial-gradient(circle at 30% 30%, #4E3A60, var(--plum)); color: var(--paper); font: inherit; text-align: left; }
.yt-play img { position: absolute; inset: 0; width: 100%; height: 100%; object-fit: cover; opacity: .55; }
.yt-btn { position: absolute; left: 50%; top: 42%; width: 76px; transform: translate(-50%, -50%); }
.yt-label { position: absolute; left: 0; right: 0; bottom: 0; padding: 12px 16px; background: linear-gradient(transparent, rgba(30, 20, 38, .9)); font-size: .9rem; }
.yt-label b { display: block; font: 600 1.1rem var(--serif); }
.yt-play:hover .yt-btn, .yt-play:focus-visible .yt-btn { transform: translate(-50%, -50%) scale(1.08); }
.video-card figcaption { font-size: .9rem; color: var(--muted); padding-top: 8px; }
.gopro-card { display: flex; gap: 14px; align-items: center; padding: 12px; background: var(--card); border: 1px solid var(--line); border-radius: var(--r); text-decoration: none; color: var(--ink); }
.gopro-card:hover { border-color: var(--terra); }
.gopro-pic { flex: 0 0 140px; }
.gopro-pic img, .gopro-pic svg { display: block; width: 140px; height: 79px; object-fit: cover; border-radius: 8px; }
.gopro-txt b { display: block; font: 600 1.1rem var(--serif); color: var(--plum); }
.gopro-txt span { color: var(--terra-text); font-weight: 600; font-size: .95rem; }

/* side: tips + plan your own */
.tips-card, .plan-box { background: var(--card); border: 1px solid var(--line); border-radius: var(--r); padding: 18px 20px; margin-bottom: 18px; }
.tips-card h2, .plan-box h2 { font-size: 1.35rem; display: flex; align-items: center; gap: .3em; }
.tips-card ul { padding-left: 1.1em; margin: 0; }
.tips-card li { margin-bottom: 6px; }
.plan-box { border: 2px solid var(--plum); box-shadow: 6px 6px 0 var(--kraft); }
.plan-box .ico { color: var(--terra-text); }
.plan-intro { color: var(--muted); font-size: .97rem; }
.plan-list { list-style: none; padding: 0; margin: 0 0 12px; }
.plan-list li { padding: 10px 0; border-top: 1px dashed var(--line); }
.plan-list a { font-weight: 700; }
.plan-note { display: block; font-size: .88rem; color: var(--muted); }
.plan-disc { font-size: .85rem; color: var(--muted); margin: 0; }
.checked { font-size: .88rem; color: var(--muted); }
.pager-trips { display: flex; flex-wrap: wrap; justify-content: space-between; gap: 12px; margin-top: 30px; margin-bottom: 30px; }
.pager-trips a { flex: 1 1 260px; padding: 14px 18px; background: var(--card); border: 1px solid var(--line); border-radius: var(--r); text-decoration: none; font: 600 1.1rem var(--serif); color: var(--plum); }
.pager-trips .next { text-align: right; }
.pager-trips small { display: block; font: 400 .85rem var(--sans); color: var(--muted); }

/* --------------------------------------------------------------- ads */
.ad-slot { margin: 18px auto; text-align: center; }
.ad-slot::before { content: "Advertisement"; display: block; font-size: .72rem; letter-spacing: .08em; text-transform: uppercase; color: var(--muted); margin-bottom: 4px; }
.ad-head { max-width: 1160px; padding: 0 16px; }
.ad-in { display: flex; justify-content: center; }

/* ----------------------------------------------------------- cookie bar */
.cookie-bar { position: fixed; left: 0; right: 0; bottom: 0; z-index: 1000; background: var(--card); border-top: 4px solid var(--terra); box-shadow: 0 -10px 30px -12px rgba(46, 34, 56, .4); padding: 14px 0; }
.cookie-in { display: flex; flex-wrap: wrap; gap: 12px 24px; align-items: center; justify-content: space-between; }
.cookie-txt { flex: 1 1 460px; font-size: .95rem; }
.cookie-txt p { margin: 0 0 .4em; }
.cookie-h { font-size: 1.15rem; margin: 0 0 .2em; }
.cookie-btns { display: flex; flex-wrap: wrap; gap: 10px; }
.cookie-btn { min-height: 46px; padding: 10px 18px; border-radius: 999px; border: 2px solid var(--plum); background: var(--plum); color: #fff; font: 700 1rem var(--sans); cursor: pointer; }
.cookie-btn[data-choice="reject"] { background: transparent; color: var(--plum); }
.cookie-now { font-weight: 600; }

/* ---------------------------------------------------------------- footer */
.site-foot { margin-top: 56px; background: var(--plum); color: #EFE4D6; padding: 34px 0 40px; border-top: 6px solid var(--mustard); }
.foot-in { display: grid; gap: 20px 40px; }
@media (min-width: 800px) { .foot-in { grid-template-columns: 1.6fr 1fr; } }
.site-foot a { color: #fff; }
.site-foot .muted { color: #D8CABB; font-size: .9rem; }
.site-foot .ad-tag { background: var(--mustard); color: var(--ink); }
.foot-brand { font: 600 1.4rem var(--serif); color: #fff; margin-bottom: .3em; }
.foot-brand i { color: var(--mustard); }
.site-foot ul { list-style: none; padding: 0; margin: 0; }
.site-foot li { margin-bottom: 8px; }

@media (max-width: 640px) {
  .head-in { padding-top: 10px; padding-bottom: 10px; }
  .main-nav a { padding: 6px 10px; font-size: .92rem; }
  .brand-name { font-size: 1.35rem; }
  .map { height: 300px; }
  .gopro-pic { flex-basis: 96px; } .gopro-pic img, .gopro-pic svg { width: 96px; height: 54px; }
}
@media (prefers-reduced-motion: reduce) { *, *::before, *::after { transition: none !important; animation: none !important; scroll-behavior: auto !important; } }
@media print {
  .site-head::after, .main-nav, .cookie-bar, .ad-slot, .map-box, .legend, .trip-toc, .plan-box, .pager-trips, .site-foot nav, .skip, .yt-frame { display: none !important; }
  body { background: #fff; font-size: 11pt; }
  .site-head, .site-foot { background: #fff; color: #000; }
  .brand-name, .brand-name small, .foot-brand { color: #000; }
  .tag-card, .ticket, .place { break-inside: avoid; box-shadow: none; }
  a { color: #000; }
  .stamp { background: none; box-shadow: none; transform: none; }
}

/* Floating banner (bottom centre) — 5od slot "bottom", added 6 Nov 2026.
   visibility (not display) hides it until 5od fills it, so t.js can still measure the width and see it; the inner
   width is up to 728px, so t.js picks 728x90 / 468x60 / 320x50; its z-index stays below the cookie bar's. */
.ad-float[hidden] { display: none !important; }
.ad-float { position: fixed; left: 50%; bottom: 0; z-index: 35; box-sizing: border-box; width: 100%; max-width: 760px;
  margin: 0; padding: 8px 16px 6px; background: #fff; color: #222; border-radius: 14px 14px 0 0;
  box-shadow: 0 -8px 28px rgba(0, 0, 0, .22); transform: translate(-50%, 0); visibility: visible; }
.ad-float:not(:has(ins.fiveod[data-fiveod="filled"])) { visibility: hidden; transform: translate(-50%, 110%); box-shadow: none; }
.ad-float-in { width: 100%; }
.ad-float-x { position: absolute; top: -14px; right: 10px; width: 30px; height: 30px; margin: 0; padding: 0; border-radius: 50%;
  border: 2px solid #fff; background: #1f1f1f; color: #fff; font: 700 18px/1 system-ui, sans-serif; cursor: pointer;
  display: grid; place-items: center; box-shadow: none; min-height: 0; min-width: 0; }
.ad-float-x:hover { background: #000; }
.ad-float-x:focus-visible { outline: 3px solid #1a73e8; outline-offset: 2px; }
body:has(.ad-float:not([hidden]) ins.fiveod[data-fiveod="filled"]) { padding-bottom: 130px; }
@media (max-width: 759px) { body:has(.ad-float:not([hidden]) ins.fiveod[data-fiveod="filled"]) { padding-bottom: 92px; } }
@media (prefers-reduced-motion: no-preference) { .ad-float { transition: transform .3s ease-out, visibility 0s; } }
@media print { .ad-float { display: none !important; } }